After a (too quick) layover in Bangkok, we have entered our first few days in India. We landed in Thursday afternoon in Calcutta. Although it lived up to its reputation for of extreme poverty and chaos, there were parts of the city which I found almost endearing. The whole city had an almost post apocalyptic vibe to me. There were tons of beautiful 19th century British buildings, but none of them have been maintained, so they are now dirty and dilapidated. This once great capitol is now overgrown with tropical jungle plants, and the streets and buildings seem to all be slowly crumbling. Great murders of crows added an almost Hitchcock feel.
That's not to say that I was not deeply moved by the poverty here. It is very sobering to see so many destitute in the streets making homes of garbage. However, I do think I was slightly more prepared for India's 3rd world-ness than Michael was. The first time I visited China was in 1995. Although China's economy was on the rise, there was still no significant expat scene, no backpacker hostels, and certainly no western style toilets. In addition, my first visit was not to one of the quickly developing cities of Beijing or Shanghai, but to Chengdu, which is basically the last Han Chinese city before the autonomous regions of the west. Only in the last few years has Chengdu seen more Western travelers, mostly on their way to Tibet or other rural areas of China's southwest. Although the poverty was probably not as bad as in Calcutta, I still remember being shocked and moved by all of the disfigured and mentally ill who slept on the streets. It was also not uncommon for beggars to aggressively stick their hands in taxis and ask for money or for orphan children to hold on to your legs until you gave them a few coins. In later visits, this became less and less visible, and it wasn't until we arrived in India that I realized beggars in China seemed nearly nonexistent on our trip (although I question whether they have actually been helped or the government has simply hidden them...).
So, all in all, I found Calcutta intense, wild, but intriguing, and although I might not choose to go back there, it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. In fact, our last night we saw an amazing musical performance, which would have made me really start liking the city if I hadn't ended the night with my head in the toilet AGAIN.
Now, after our first Indian overnight sleeper train and a very rough 4 hour jeep ride, we are finally in our hotel in Darjeeling. It is much more laid back here, and the scenery is incredible. Sadly, Michael and I both seem to be suffering from pretty bad stomach infections, but I suppose these are common in new places. I am ecstatic to have the chance to go into the Himalayas, though, as it has been a wish of mine since my first trip to the Rubin Museum a few years ago. Truly a dream come true.
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